Alaïa Takes Over the Guggenheim
The Guggenheim Museum in New York took on a different mantle on last Friday night as, in a jaw-dropping 85 years, it hosted its maiden runway show

Pieter Mulier, creative director for Alaïa, left no stone unturned to showcase a show of a lifetime that was historic and sensational in equal measure. With supermodels like Kendall Jenner treading the spiraling runway, this is a night that's sure to go down in the annals of fashion history!

Mulier’s Bold Vision: Breaking All the Rules
- American Sportswear Gets a Sexy Makeover
In a move that shocked fashion insiders, Mulier brought a daring twist to classic American sportswear by ditching zippers and buttons entirely. “We looked a lot at the history of American fashion and what it used to be,” Mulier revealed in a pre-show chat with WWD. His collection featured body-hugging gowns, miniskirts, and bra tops, all designed to accentuate curves without a single fastening.
“It was very interesting for us because we are normally a brand that's very zipped up, very buttoned up and all about the waists,” Mulier said. “It was not an easy thing, but the body was still respected in the way we designed the collection.”
And guess what? The collection was a hit with next-gen stars like Kendall Jenner and Kaia Gerber, proving that Mulier's innovative approach is a game-changer.
- Mulier’s Emotional Homecoming
Friday night wasn't a fashion moment for Mulier, but it was deeply personal, too. Having once worked under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, the designer admitted, "I was the most happy here." While he's had some rough times in his biography, Mulier's revisit to New York felt very nostalgic and victorious. "Most happy in my personal life," he amended, making this show a major milestone in his career.



Alaïa’s American Love Affair: A Legacy Revisited
- The Impact of American Market
Starting in 1980, Alaïa had developed an extremely close relationship with American consumers since its ready-to-wear collection finally reached the U.S. fashion market. Alaïa finally hit the jackpot with the investment of Bergdorf Goodman's Dawn Mello. "He's humble, shy and very sweet, and the ultimate perfectionist," Mello said. The collection sold out in two days, showing just how much power Alaïa held over American fashion.
- Theatrical Spectacles of the 1980s
Alaïa's return to New York in 1985 included an extravagant show at the Palladium nightclub. It was a definitive presentation that had some of the best supermodels - Cindy Crawford and Iman, among others - in attendance. "I've watched it over and over," Mulier confessed. "It was so incredible and so dramatic…shows like that didn't exist then in America." The lavish presentation and star-studded guest list made it nothing short of epochal.
- The Guggenheim Fashion Revolution
Mulier’s decision to present his latest collection at the Guggenheim was nothing short of inspired. His fall 2024 collection featured Spiral Dresses that mirrored the museum’s unique architecture. "The Guggenheim contacted me right after the show to say they were amazing,” Mulier said. “When we decided to go to New York, we contacted them and said it would be perfect to show there.”
The museum’s cooperation, including dimming Jenny Holzer’s art to spotlight the fashion, created a stunning fusion of art and couture.
- Looking Forward: Alaïa’s Bold Future
Alaïa is preparing for a bright future, with further expansion into U.S. retail. "New boutiques will be opened in Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and Miami, while the brand is continuing its tradition of excellence." Mulier emphasized the show’s role in “injecting a positive impulse into the positive environment,” reflecting the brand’s commitment to innovation and growth.
Press rumors of possible moves to other fashion houses aside, Mulier is loyal to Alaïa. "I'm very happy," he asserted. "No…," he cleared his throat. "Not yet."




Don’t Miss the Fashion Buzz!
The Guggenheim’s fashion event was a game-changing night that celebrated Alaïa’s past while pushing the boundaries of modern design. With its mix of dramatic flair and timeless elegance, this show has set a new standard in the fashion world. Stay tuned for more updates as Alaïa continues to make waves and redefine haute couture!
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